RB 225 Instructions

Assembly of kit 

1. Remove the engine bar and lower the engine to ensure ease of assembly and for checking frame clearance.
2. Clean the crankcase base gasket surface completely. Take the new cylinder base gasket, lightly grease and fit to neck of crankcase.
3. Fit piston complete, making sure the arrow on the crown of the piston points towards the exhaust port.
4. Check the bolts holding reed petal stops are tight. Pinch the dual reeds together, and fit the reed valve assembly in to the cylinder. Lightly grease the inlet gasket and loosely fit the inlet manifold to the cylinder. Fit the six inlet bolts with loctite, clamping the inlet manifold to the cylinder. Fit exhaust studs with loctite.
5. Fit RB cylinder on to the engine, take care not to damage the piston or rings, check to make sure the cylinder is sitting down flat on the base gasket. If there is any resistance find the cause, do not apply excessive force. Fit the head gasket and secure the 225 cylinder head to a torque setting of 20 ft.lbs. If you are fitting a skimmed head please ensure that it has been opened out to the correct diameter.
6. Loosely offer up the cowling, mark around the cowling the inlet manifold position and the exhaust port position and cut the cowling to suit.
7. Lift the engine back up and locate the engine bar. Check you have sufficient clearance between the inlet manifold and frame by removing and refitting the rear shock (to simulate full suspension travel). Make any modifications as required to the frame, remove battery tray if fitted, fit series III rear shock (300mm) if series II is fitted.
8. Fit the exhaust stub and cowling. Proceed as normal for the complete engine assembly. You will require a piece of petrol pipe approx. 18’’ in length. Thread the pipe under the frame, across the head cowling to the carburettor.

Plug and Oil mixture
Run the machine using a Champion N2 plug with 30 thou plug gap, or equivalent from another manufacturer, you may need the hotter N3 in winter. Use a petrol to oil mixture of 25 : 1 (4%, or two AF mixing jugs per 5 litres). Never drop below 4% mixture regardless of brand of oil or what “your mate said”!
Always use 99RON Unleaded if the head has been skimmed. Regular 95 RON unleaded should be okay with the standard AF 225 Head.

Starting point for jetting Dellorto VHSB 34LD
Slide – standard 40
Needle K21 or K24
Needle jet (atomiser) DP266 / DP267
Main Jet 175 to 190 Pilot Jet 45 to 55.
Float Valve 250 minimum Choke Jet 50
 

N.B. Do not fit an inline fuel filter. This jetting is not suitable for running with an air filter.

Expansion System and Gearbox
The expansion system you use will affect the final drive ratio you will need, and the desired final drive ratio will dictate which front sprocket, and crownwheel you will need to make your gearbox work well. Ask the supplier of your expansion system what they recommend letting them know your weight, if you are using the bike two up and the area you will be riding the bike in, i.e. Hilly, Flat, Town, etc.

RB Rally NK Expansion with a 12 stone rider for general all round riding we recommend a final drive of 4.8 (GP200 gearbox = 19T – 46T with 82 chain).
RB Road Race NK Expansion with a 12 stone rider for fast ‘A’ Road riding we recommend a final drive of 4.8 (GP200 gearbox = 19T – 46T with 82 chain).

Chassis, Forks, Brakes, Tyres and Suspension
A correctly set up RB22 is substantially more powerful and significantly faster than the standard 200cc Lambretta. It is prudent to ensure your Lambretta’s handling is adequate. A powerful front brake, good quality tyres, and a well maintained machine are essential to your safe enjoyment.

Important Concerns
Clean out your petrol tank and petseal it before use, especially if you are fitting a new petrol tank or a long range tank. If it contains any abrasive it will rapidly destroy your kit. Blasting grit is the worst offender but polishing compound will have the same result. Also check your fuel flow and filter in your carb regularly for contamination. Fuel starvation will cause a number of expensive problems. Check your head cowl is the late GP type with the large air outlet, and that your flycowl is a close fit with your flywheel to ensure you have the best cooling you can. We do not recommend you set your bike up on a dyno. We did extensive dyno testing in the development stage of this kit (and build those engines with this in mind), and I expect other dealers to do similar levels of dyno work whilst they develop their own set ups to suit the kit. We do this so we can give you the correct answer and the best performance without you having to so load your engine. We have never dynoed a customer’s bike and do not intend to. We recommend jetting changes be judged by road testing. 

Running in Your RB Kit
During the running in period adhere to the following:

1. During the running in period adhere to the following: 1. 4% (25:1) mixture, use a good quality Fully Synthetic oil. Never drop below 4%. We recommend Rock Oil Synthesis 2 and Motul 710.
2. Try to use the bike for short journeys (i.e. less than 12 miles) or break longer journeys in to smaller chunks.
3. Vary the rpm while riding i.e. do not just sit at 40mph all the time.
   First 100 miles: Stay below 45 mph and vary the rpm. 
   Next 200 miles: Stay below 55 mph and vary the rpm. 
   Next 200 miles: Stay below 65 mph and vary the rpm.

At 500 Miles give the bike a check over, 1st service & oil change. 

Next 500 miles: Do not hold the bike flat out for any length of time. Have fun.

Servicing your RB Kit
The RB Kit is significantly more powerful than the standard engine. As a result servicing is even more important in order to maintain a safe and reliable bike. We recommend the following as a minimum level of care to ensure you get the most enjoyment out of your bike. Please show this information to your servicing dealer, and make them aware of any considerations or areas of concern before the service..

500 Miles 1st Service: Re-Torque Head Nuts to 20ftlb, Tighten exhaust nuts, Check and reset / replace spark plug, Clean carb, Check and adjust carburation, Check fuel flow and carb filter, Check and adjust control cables, Change gear oil (ST90), Grease appropriate points, Check tyres and tyre pressures. Test ride, check lights and report condition of machine highlighting any areas of concern. Approx, 2.5 hours.

1500 Miles 2nd Service: Check and reset / replace spark plug, Clean carb, Check and adjust carburation, Check fuel flow and carb filter, Check and adjust control cables, Open crankcase side, Check gearbox clearance, Inspect Clutch, Check Chain and adjust Chain Tensioner, Inspect Sprockets, Replace gear oil (ST90), Check tyres and tyre pressures, Inspect Brakes, Grease appropriate points, Test ride, check lights and report condition of machine highlighting any areas of concern. Approx, 3.5 hours.

3000 Miles 3rd Service: Inspect Top End, Check Ring Gap, replace if greater than 25 thou (0.6mm) Check and reset / replace spark plug, Clean carb, Check and adjust carburation, Check fuel flow and carb filter, Check and adjust control cables, Open crankcase side, Check gearbox clearance, Inspect Clutch, Check Chain and adjust Chain Tensioner, Inspect Sprockets, Replace gear oil (ST90), Check tyres and tyre pressures, Inspect Brakes, Grease appropriate points, Test ride, check lights and report condition of machine highlighting any areas of concern. Approx, 5 hours. Note: Re-Torque Head to 20ftlb after 50 miles.

All subsequent service intervals are at 3000 miles or 12 months and should follow the same procedure as the 3rd service, taking special consideration of individual use of the bike.